Defy Gravity in the Yarra Valley
How do you experience the esteemed Yarra Valley wineries if you’re broke and don’t drive? Now there’s a dilemma many students philosophise over as they recline into their second-hand couches sipping three-dollar merlot. Most decide that it’s not possible, that it’s an experience reserved for the wealthy, and recline further – resigning to live vicariously through an episode of Getaway . I am one of those broke students with no car. Luckily (?!) for me I have one of those darling girlfriends who just loooves an adventure; the more ambitious, the better. Now throw in a couple of recently purchased second hand push-bikes to the mix and I was faced with the recipe for a beautiful disaster; its bittersweet taste not easily forgotten.
The toasty interior of the Flinders to Lilydale train allowed a temporary escape from the harsh reality of Melbourne’s furious winds outside. At bang on midday we sat down at Danielle’s Cafe (conveniently located directly opposite Lilydale train station) with a map marking the wineries around the region. With well over 50 estates within a 30 kilometre radius, we sought the advice of the friendly blokes at Yarra Valley Cycles (conveniently located two doors down from the cafe). They drew a few squiggles and wished us luck. A quick gulp of Danielle’s enlivening latte, a cautious glance at the brooding weather clouds overhead and we were off: pedalling down the B300 highway at the steady pace of 11 km/h, alongside the thunderous cavalcade of hurtling trucks and semi-trailers blowing their warm welcome of horns and jeers. Viva la adventure!
Almost two hours later we arrived red-faced and palpitating at what was to be our first and only winery of the day: the enchanting and picturesque Medhurst Estate. We parked our rusting bikes next to shimmering Saabs and hobbled into the Red Shed wine-tasting restaurant, perched high on a hill overlooking endless fields of grapevines and apple-tree orchards. It took us more than a few moments to gather our wits and a regular breathing pattern, but there is no denying the absolute tranquillity of the region, which is perfectly encapsulated in this cosy glass-facade restaurant.
The warmth and crackle of the open-fire, the soothing drones of Leonard Cohen on the stereo, the mouth-watering splashes of a multitude of red’s and white’s and the friendly wine-education chatter from Suzy behind the bar almost made us forget the fact that we had only travelled 13 kilometres on a 33 kilometre round-trip. Almost .
On the road again, but after that fantastic pit-stop we had a renewed spring in our pedal – and as if to sprinkle a little more fairy dust onto our ever-illuminating path, we rounded the corner into what has to be the most delightful stretch of road for bike-riders in the whole Yarra Valley region: Maddens Lane; a four kilometre downhill paradise with hundreds of cows and sheep and quaint old country houses to either side.
We were laughing – there is simply no way anyone could appreciate the magnificence of this countryside if they were speeding past in a Saab. We were the ones hooting and hollering now. Who said it couldn’t be done?!! We still had 15 kilometres to cycle to Lilydale station, and the clouds overhead were dense and darkening, but that all seemed trivial right now. I was drunk on our achievements, hell; I’d just as easily float home! My head was so filled with awe and wonder that it took a few minutes to figure out why the back half of my bike had suddenly sunk to the gravel.
The Yarra Valley Wineries: certainly not the domain reserved for the rich but for heaven’s sake, pack a puncture repair kit.
Careful to avoid turning paradise…
…into a disaster
Click here for info on the Yarra Valley wineries.
Article written by Ryan Nance and photos by Mary-Rose Gaynor